Five Hongdae Cafés You Don't Want to Miss, Pt. 2

3. Café LE.A

• LE.A is the answer to every college student's prayer. It's much, much more spacious inside that it might seem--meaning a lot of room to spread out. It's built like a house (possibly it was renovated from one originally) and so that also means there's walls inside, separating different sections of the upstairs floor to give different people--especially handy for study groups--their privacy. There are two floors: the first is filled with shelves of graphic novels and art books, perfect for leisurely browsing, and the second has the aforementioned open spaces and big full-length windows. 

• There's two internet networks, including a password-locked one that only people inside the building (able to read the sign on the wall) can access. There are also a lot of outlets, and power extension cords, which are always a must-have for laptop users.

• Every morning until one in the afternoon, LE.A offers a spread of all-you-can-eat bagels and muffins for only 1,000 won. They're the café's day-old baked goods, but still perfectly fresh--and luckily they make available a toaster for the bagels, and butter and jam for both. It's the perfect cheap breakfast on-the-run on a limited budget. 

• They also offer a pretty varied menu, just incase you're feeling up for a cool can of beer and some nachos as an afternoon mid-study snack. The only downside is that you have to order a side dish if you're going to get beer, so you might be better off sticking with one of the rich iced coffee drinks.

• This seems to be a recurring motif on this list, but LE.A is also occupied by pets--the owners' two Labradors like to hang out, mostly on the first floor outside porch. It's either a draw or a turn-off, depending on your personal taste, but be warned that sometimes the dogs can be irritatingly noisy or maybe nudge at your knees, wanting to hang out.

• Directions: from the front gate of Hongik University, facing the school, walk to your right on the same side of the street that the university is on (across the street from the Hongdae park). Keep walking until you pass the store Codes Combine, and then take a left into the alleyway. Keep following the alley until you pass the back side of CoffeeSmith, and Café LE.A should be on your left. 

4. café SOURCE

• Summer should mean outdoor dining, and café SOURCE provides some of the most fantastic outdoor seating I've seen in Seoul. The patio is huge and doesn't face a noisy street--instead, it borders two other coffee shops (Starbucks and Nescafé, so you should take the quirky route and forego those), and they've panted leafy trees next to the other adjacent patio wall. All in all, it's an assuredly calm and breezy little space with an assortment of charming table-and-chair sets to choose from, some with umbrellas, and outdoor fans to keep the air from getting stuffy. If you're still not convinced, there are also covered-but-open "sunrooms" that beckon with the promise of more intimate seating. 

• The ground floor of the building is the kitchen, but there's also two upstairs floors of seating that are similarly airy and open. 

• café SOURCE is also a restaurant--sitting outside, you get a full taste of all the delicious aromas wafting out of the kitchen--but they also boast a varied drink menu. Coffees, teas, fruit juices and the list goes on and on. The prices are not bad at all either, with everything ranging from 4,000 to 9,000 won for café drinks. Sake, wine and beer are also available. café SOURCE offers matcha, as well, a finely-ground green tea that's popular in Japan (café SOURCE is a "Japanese café," according to their front sign). But instead of straight-up tea, you can get it in different drinks, like the matcha latte or the matcha chocolate drink. 

• A lot of Hongdae cafés win the aesthetics department, but café SOURCE really does offer the perfect sidewalk-café experience. It's quiet and warm, perfect for slow conversations over food and lazily unwinding on a summer night. The prime location and the overall atmosphere are much better alternatives to the usual overly air conditioned, noisy coffee shops that are only too easy to find in the city. 

• Directions: take a left when facing the front gate of Hongik University, and walk until you see a Café Nescafé. Turn into that alleyway, where you should see a Starbucks standing immediately next to the Nescafé. Turn into the alleyway between the two buildings, and café SOURCE should be immediately to your left. 

5. Café Aritaum

• Okay, so actually, this one is a bit of a cheat. But I figured that since nice Hongdae cafés aren't actually all that difficult to find--it just takes a bit of adventuring and the willingness to get lost for a few minutes--I'd try something a little different for the last entry on this list. Café Aritaum isn't actually in Hongdae, but it's fairly near given the subway station. Instead, it's located on a bridge overlooking the Hangang Park and the Han River. 

• I'll be the first to admit that Café Aritaum is sort of a pain to find, and besides the Hangang River and Park, there's nothing else in the area. But it does offer a fantastic view, with little port-hole windows that look over the water and the cityscape to either side. It's pretty in the daytime, but at nighttime, with the city lights glittering over the reflective black of the water--it's an absolute treat.

• Drinks are rather pricey, ranging from 7,000 to 10,000 for simple concoctions. Café Aritaum isn't frequented by very many visitors (so at least you'll have the whole place to yourselves) and there's also personal air conditioning/fans for each table so you can cool off in peace. They have a solid selection of drinks, though, and I would recommend trying a slice of the walnut cake. It's not very moist, but instead dense in a good way without any hint of syrupy, sugary-ness. 

• Directions: Take the subway to Dangsan Station, and go out of Exit #4. Walk the length of the outdoor platform until you reach the end, and take either the elevators or the stairs down. Turn and walk to your left (while facing the Han River) and keep walking until you reach a sandy playground. This playground should be right next to the underpass of another bridge, which is connected by an elevator that you can take. Take the elevator, which should place you right on the bridge in front of the café. There's also a Café Aritaum on the other side of the bridge too, which is also accessible by elevator from the opposite side of the underpass. 

Five Hongdae Cafés You Don't Want to Miss, Pt. 1

In Seoul, café culture reigns supreme. There's literally hundreds of independent coffee shops all across the country, and each has its own unique charm--especially in neighborhoods like Hongdae, a youthful and fun-loving neighborhood filled with artsy college students who are just as willing to pay for the aesthetics of an establishment as they are for the actual drinks. Unlike in business districts where the coffee drinkers are usually office employees on the run, location doesn't necessarily have to be the end-all, be-all rule of a successful café in Hongdae. Here, it's not all about getting a cup of coffee as soon as possible; other priorities take precedence. Hongdae's customers would rather take some twisting turns in back alleyways in order to find that perfect, secret spot than go to the first Starbucks they can find (not, of course, that corporate café chains don't do well here--they absolutely do). 

All in all, finding all of Hongdae's great little cafés and ranking them would probably be an impossible venture. Instead, here are some of my current summer favorites, in no particular order, that have a few particular quirks that set them apart from the rest:

1. aA Café

• A Hongdae café classic--this joint café/museum beats all others when it comes to interior design. The main room is gigantic and spacious, warehouse-like, filled with an adorable assortment of seating (it's quaint and mismatched, but rates five-stars in comfort) and some seriously fantastic lighting. The avant-garde chandelier doesn't seem like it would do much good after dark, but thanks to the huge windows and infiltration of natural sunlight, there's no chance of feeling crowded or cooped up. 

• aA is also home to a museum of amazing furniture from all over the world: tables and desks and chairs, all belonging to a famous art collector. The building's five stories (the café only occupies the ground floor) are a museum/gallery that customers are invited to browse at their leisure, and it's definitely worth checking out.  

• Recommendations for a light lunch: the citron-ade (유자에이드) and the club sandwich. Prices aren't unreasonable, each item being about 5,000 to 10,000 won. The drinks are brought out quickly, but if you order food, be prepared to wait quite a while.  

2. Thanks Nature Café

• Despite its first-rate location, this shop can be surprisingly easy to miss. It's on the basement floor of a building located on the hill leading up to the front gate of Hongik University, on the same street as Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, Café Bene and all of the other big-name chains. Look for 'Jakob's Kitchen,' and then look down. Like a lot of other places in the area, Thanks Nature Café relies upon a theme to stand out from every other coffee place in the vicinity--unsurprisingly, the theme is "nature"--but thankfully lives up to the particulars with a calm, quiet interior.

• Honestly, one of the greatest things about Thanks Nature Café is that it's so perfectly zen inside. There's also an outside patio/terrace, and both that and the inside are filled with potted green plants--the description sounds a bit obvious and unimpressive, but it lends to the Disneyland-forest-feel in a great way that works.

• Thanks Nature also employs two live sheep to make the nature-themed decor really authentic. In a small pen on the patio, there are two white sheep that hang out, occasionally bleating noisily; the animal-lover in me doesn't know how to feel about keeping two grown sheep in a Hongdae café, but it's certainly unusual and makes this particular establishment memorable, which is probably what the owners were going for. 

• They don't use sugar or processed syrups in their drinks, instead opting for all-natural sweeteners that give their fare a light, refreshing taste instead of the saccharine flavor that most Korean lattes or flavored coffees possess. 

• Recommendations for a dessert-y snack: try the brownie with ice cream, and the iced black tea latte. The richness of the brownie and the ice cream--which might be overwhelming with something too sweet--go well with the smooth subtlety of black tea latte, which alone, is also perfection.

Maps: the first is for Café aA, the second is for Thanks Nature Café

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Yookssam Naengmyeon @ Hongdae – Experience the Galbi/Naengmyeon Goodness [guest post from SEOULGRID.com]

Naengmyeon, a common Korean noodle dish, is an excellent example of the creative nature of Korean food. When I first tired naengmyeon, I thought, “How did they think to put these ingredients together? The noodles are iced!” Naengmyeon is as popular as it is creative. Yookssam Naengmyeon, a naengmyeon joint in Hongdae, not only serves this unique dish, but they have also tried to recreate the galbi/naengmyeon experience.

Yookssam Naengmyeon offers both mul naengmyeon (cold water noodles) and bibbim naengmyeon (cold noodles with assorted vegetables). Both naengmyeon dishes (4,900 KRW) follow the old style recipes without much deviation. The mul naengmyeon is made using cold buckwheat noodles served in a light iced broth topped with cucumbers, egg, and pickled radish. The bibbim naengmyeon is served dry with extra vegetables, smothered in hot pepper sauce.  It is spicier than at other naengmyeon houses, so go with the mul naengmyeon if you have a sensitive palate. There are also a few other selections on the menu, bibimbap (4,900 KRW), kalguksu (4,900 KRW), and mandu (2,800 KRW). These options also come with a side of grilled galbi (marinated rib meat).

Yookssam Naengmyeon offers a nice view of a small street in Hongdae through large windows along the front of the restaurant. The windows also create an open, airy feeling, even though the establishment is small. The tables and walls match and are both done in a dark wood stain. The restaurant is clean and minimal, suitable for a quick bite or an afternoon stay. With opening hours at 11am and closing time at 11pm, breakfast is the only meal you cannot enjoy at Yookssam Naengmyeon.

There are multiple Yookssam Naengmyeon locations, 2 of which are located in Hongdae. I visited both locations and found that the quality of food and atmosphere was inconsistent. The first Yookssam Naengmyeon location (the address listed below) was better. The food was prepared carefully and the atmosphere was more open and much cleaner.  There are also locations in Gangnam and Shinchon.

Although many naengymeon houses have tried to reinvent this signature Korean dish, Yookssam Naengmyeon has ingeniously mimicked the manner in which naengmyeon is served rather than changing recipe itself.  This creative twist to already original dish brings diners back again and again.

The Good

• Original naengmyeon recipe
• Open atmosphere
• Excellent prices and value

The Bad

• Quality varies depending on location
• (Overly) Spicy bibbim naengmyeon
• Inconvenient washrooms

Contact

02-333-6392

Location

마포구 서교동345-27 2층

Mapo-gu, Seogyo-dong 345-27, 2^nd floor

Directions for the address given above (and I think the better location)

Note: There are 2 locations in Hongdae

From the Subway: Take exit 5 from Hongkik University station, green line 2. Turn left at the first street, so that KFC is on your left. Walk straight to the end of the street (2 blocks) and veer right into the back street (do not turn right onto the main street). Walk straight until you almost reach the intersection. Yookssam Naengmyeon will be on your right, on the second floor, in the second building from the intersection.

Map

This article was originally posted on SEOULGRID.com on December 2, 2010. Re-blogged with permission.

Goulash Soup & Bread

The area surrounding Hongik University--Korea's premier art college, so take that into consideration when imagining the general atmosphere of the place--is one of my favorite neighborhoods in all of Seoul. Hongdae (an abbreviation of Hongik Daehakgyo, which means 'university' in Korean) decidedly lacks the gloss of Gangnam, but definitely makes up for it with a wealth of youthful style and laid-back fun. The business establishments are quirky, the parties are just the right amount of cheap and messy, and since it's primarily a college campus, there are an abundance of places to grab an affordable meal.

One particular gem is Goulash Soup & Bread, a lovely restaurant tucked away in an alley and consisting entirely of a counter, kitchen and narrow, bar-like seating. It's run by a friendly couple who make eating at their place a cozy experience. Goulash is a Hungarian soup and a staple of the working class: a hearty seasoned broth full of potatoes, carrots, beef and onions--the recipe is one that the restaurant owners brought back from their travels all over Europe. You have the choice of either ordering Set A (soup, bread, coffee and rice), Set B (the same, except it also comes with salad), or Set C (salad, two pieces of bread, and tomato juice). There's actually also a cat post-it that offers a Set D (soup, chicken salad and coffee), but it doesn't seem to be part of the official permanent menu quite yet.



It seems like all of the prices have risen about 500 won since last summer, although the meals here are still much cheaper than at most non-Korean restaurants in Seoul. The coffee is also terrific here: Korean restaurants sometimes offer complimentary mixed coffee that's always disgustingly saccharine and syrupy, but this hot drink is black and strong, and goes extremely well with the flavors of the Goulash.


Unfortunately, it slipped my mind to ask this time around but Goulash Soup & Bread has been notable for allowing unlimited refills, on top of what are already killer prices. It's worth asking for a second serving. I've spent days wishing that I had a bigger stomach that would allow me to eat and eat here. Nothing makes me perk up in Seoul quite as much as good bread, and the rolls at Goulash Soup & Bread are literally heaven. These small loaves are warm and always freshly heated in the oven; their insides are soft and white and served with butter--literally, the perfect companions to the delicious stew.

All in all, Goulash Soup & Bread is the definition of homey: the proprietors are incredibly kind, there's comforting oldies pop about lost loves playing on the stereo, and everything comes in brightly glazed colors. The menu doesn't offer very many choices, so if you aren't looking for the house special, then I suggest that you treat yourself to one of Hongdae's myriad of local eateries. But if you're in the mood to try one of my most beloved hole-in-the-wall restaurants in all of the city, then certainly give it a try.


Directions: Take Hongdae Subway Station Exit #9 and keep walking for a few blocks before making a left so that you're heading up the hill that leads to the gate of Hongik University. While walking up the hill, the Hongdae Taco Bell should be on your right. At the top of the hill, take a sharp right before the front gate and into the smaller uphill street that's right alongside the Hongdae Park. Keep walking until you see a Smoothie King on your right, and Goulash Soup & Bread is in the small alleyway immediately afterwards.

Makino Chaya @ Gangnam Stn – Seafood Buffet with a Twist [guest post from SEOULGRID.com]

There are sushi lovers, and then there are sushi buffet lovers. Hidden away between Gangnam Station and Yeoksam Station is Makino Chaya, a decently-priced seafood buffet offering a wide array of fresh and cooked seafood and non-seafood items.

I was pleasantly surprised by the restaurants decor and setup.  Once we were escorted to our seats, it was game on.  In terms of food items, I’d have to say Makino Chaya wasn’t that far off from places like Todai, which most of us have frequented once or twice.  But for a slightly more expensive buffet, I was hoping to see something different. One thing I did notice that was different from other Seafood buffets was the large selection of traditional Korean food items.  In fact they had a whole section dedicated to just that. Was I thrilled? Well, let’s just say they had three different kinds of Makeoli.  Something you don’t normally see included in the buffet price — alcohol.

But if you do want wine, beer or sake, expect to pay a little more than what you would normally. 5,500won gets you 330ml (a small glass) of Asahi beer on tap.

I didn’t see any crab legs on the menu.  I’m not sure if Makino Chaya offers them or if they hide them away like they do at Todai. Regardless, I was expecting to eat crab, but went home disappointed.

Getting a table on a Sunday afternoon wasn’t difficult. We didn’t need a reservation but I suggest you get there earlier in the evening and reserve plenty of time to get your “rounds” in since the kitchen will stop preparing food at around 7:45pm.

There are two Makino Chaya branches, but I suggest the one near Gangnam Station for you train commuters.  From there, Makino Chaya is about 150m once you get out of Gangnam Station Exit 1. You have to turn into a smaller street off of Teheran Blvd but once you do, the restaurant is easy to spot.  Makino Chaya also, conveniently offers valet service for those of you who prefer to drive.

http://makinochaya.co.kr

This article was originally posted on SEOULGRID.com on July 6, 2011. Re-blogged with permission.

Quick Post: The Koxx

image taken from http://thekoxx.com

Unless we're talking about the big K-Pop idol stars, it can be incredibly difficult to access--let alone really get into--the local Korean music scene. Band websites hosted by Cyworld or Daum Cafe are protected by the sites' strict user policies, which definitely don't make for easy browsing. SSAM is a music site where users can browse artist profiles and message boards, but is entirely in Korean, thereby completely unhelpful to any foreigners interested in seeing what Korean indie has to offer. There are a few record labels I've found that (while considerably smaller than the corporate giants) are big enough to have a buoyant following and showcase fairly well-known musicians: Locksmith Music, Pastel Music, HappyRobot Records. I don't doubt there are many more, but like I've said, it's been pretty difficult navigating the Korean music scene online.

Considering that July is music festival season for Korea--Jisan Valley and Pentaport are happening later this month--I thought I'd share some Korean music that might be worth checking out.

I'm posting about The Koxx because a small record store on my way to work every morning features a prominent poster of theirs in the window. After doing some research, I've found that they're considered one of the more popular and successful indie acts in the country; they play often in Hongdae venues and tour different Asian cities as well. The Koxx are a self-proclaimed 'electro/garage rock' (as seen on their Facebook page) whose sound could definitely fit right next to any of the genre's best American or European contemporaries. The band's name had me anticipating something like 1970's-revival-punk, but instead I was pleasantly surprised.

Currently, the band has released one full-length album, a mini album and a digital single. The full-length dropped in mid-June, which explains the recent buzz I'd been hearing about them. It's deserved, too: the five-piece group and their dance-y rhythms possess a level of sophistication (and fantastic production) that makes them one of the best bands I've heard come out of Korea in a long while.

A Guide to K-BBQ, Pt. 2: Dduk-ssam

For those of you that understand Korean, dduk-ssam (떡삼) is pretty self explanatory: dduk wraps. 

Dduk-ssam isn't anything like dduk galbi, by the way, which is probably the first thing that came to mind when reading the words dduk (Korean rice cakes) and K-BBQ in the same sentence. Instead, it's when diners are given not only the usual lettuce leaves for ssam (wraps), but also thin rectangular pieces of dduk as well. There's usually a small assortment of different kinds, and BBQ-ers use these as they would the lettuce leaves. Everything else--from the samgyupsal to the side dishes--is pretty much standard. 

So what's the big deal?

Adding dduk to a normal K-BBQ meal might not sound particularly exciting; it might not even sound appetizing. But trust me when I say it's absolutely delicious. I had my own reservations at first, disbelieving that dduk and samgyupsal would go well together, but now I'm a firm believer. 

There are quite a few dduk-ssam restaurants all over Seoul; I usually frequent a chain with the overzealous name of Dduk-sam dol-kimchi sangyup, or 떡삼돌김치삼겹. The name literally translates into “dduk wrap stone kimchi sangyup,” which is basically lists their house menu. It’s also called Dduk-ssam Shidae (떡삼시대), or “dduk-ssam era,” but most of the businesses in Seoul seem to display the more complicated moniker at the front of their establishments. Here’s the company website, which is unfortunately only available in Korean, but if you’re able to navigate it, it lists the various locations around the country at which it can be found.

Unlike with lettuce or other leafy green vegetables, dduk-ssam add a bit of sweetness to the meal that surprisingly works really well with the grilled pork. Of course, each particular flavor of dduk is unique—from the original white, to green tea, to sweet potato, and so on. Imagine the basic colors that dduk comes in—forest green, a golden yellow, light pink, and a beige-ish white—and you have what constitutes the restaurant’s offerings. Of course, not every location has the same variety, but even if you’re stuck with one kind of dduk it’s a fantastic KBBQ experience.  

(Speaking of specific locations—at the Apgujeong location of the chain, they served original and green tea dduk when I was there. We also received a free refill on our supply of dduk, which might be because we ordered two servings of meat—perhaps equating to two servings of dduk?)

Samgyupsal wrapped in dduk has a richer and fuller taste than when it’s paired with lettuce. The denser texture of each bite is fantastic—for any fan of KBBQ, or for anyone interested in trying out a small variation to a common going-out meal, this is definitely worth a shot.  

Pictures were taken at the Apgujeong location of 떡삼돌김치삼겹. Directions: from Apgujeong Subway Station, take exit #4 and walk straight until you reach the tallest, most official-looking building in that area. It should be at the end of the first full block, and turn right into the smaller street that it’s on. Walk about two blocks, and the restaurant should be on your right. 

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